Benefits of Hydrosols in Skincare
What are Hydrosols?
At its most basic the word hydrosol is literally ‘water solution’. As with all things plants, it’s much more complicated chemically than that. In the world of skincare and aromatherapy, hydrosols are also known as hydrolate which references the milky quality of the product fresh from the still: hydro = water, late (lait) = milk.
Sometimes they are called floral waters, but this is misleading because hydrolates come from seeds, bark, branches, roots, etc and not just flowers. And also because commercially “floral waters” are often distilled water with an additive which allows for the suspension of aroma chemicals. These are strictly for the smell, and not for any specific therapeutic quality.
Hydrosols contain all of the plant in every drop - all of the water soluble components, even essential oil molecules flowing through the fluid. They are often the by-product of steam distilling plants to collect the essential oils. In some cases they are recirculated at high temperatures to extract as much possible oil from the plant.
For healing and therapeutic purposes the best hydrosols are collected at slower, lower temperatures to maintain the inherent properties of the plant leaving some of the essential oils in suspension.
Properly trained aromatherapists can recommend consuming hydroslos to treat certain conditions. Many hydrosols from herbs and flowers make excellent additions to drinks.
Our primary concern at Alchemy is in the topical application of hydrosols for skin care.
Why Hydrosols for skincare?
Skin needs hydration to be healthy, we know that. And since hydrosols are the water soluble plant medicine, it is easily absorbed (and used) by the body to promote health and vitality of the dermal layers.
Some skin conditions even benefit from choosing the hydrosol over the essential oil. Essential oils need a carrier and must be diluted. Hydrosols can be diluted but are often used at full potency without negative effects.
Much research centers on the extrinsic factors of aging skin (UV exposure) and the damage to the collagen-elastin forming cells of the skin.
One study looked at the free-radical-scavenging properties of 60+ plants and found that many have the ability to stall, even protect skin-cells from damage. Some hydrosols were shown to be at least as effective as topical cortisone as an anti-inflammatory*
Hydrosols typically maintain the benefits of the essential oil, but since the hydrosol is the dilution and the delivery mechanism, they are better tolerated for direct use on the skin. This also means that for plants that are adaptogenic, and bring balance (edible or essence), the hydrosol has that same benefit on the endocrine system.
When formulating for skincare, we select ingredients that add value instead of ones that just take up space. Hydrosols replace distilled water whenever possible because we want every ingredient to be an ‘active’ ingredient.
Where to find hydrosols in Alchemy products:
Neroli (or Orange Blossom) Citrus aurantium from Morocco - exquisitely floral and seductive, sedative, anti-anxiety and calming
sold in a 2 oz mister bottle for direct application and mixing masks
Rose Rosa damascena from India & Bulgaria - highly complex and sublime, humectant (moisturizing), slightly astringent
Rose hydrosol is part of the emulsion that makes the Apricot + Rose Body Butter so luscious, it’s also sold in a 2 oz mister bottle for direct application or use for mixing masks
Lavender Lavendula angustifolia -hidecote distilled by Alchemy - soapy-sweet and floral, balancing, cooling, healing
this distillate was made by me in the fall of 2021 and is in the collaboration called “local lavender” lotion
Bergamot Citrus bergmia fresh citrus burst with floral undertones, refreshing, soothes signs of aging over-exposed and tired skin
this is in our extreme small batch of Bergamot, Clary Sage, Blue Tansy lotion sold via the Members only page
The Future of Hydrosols at Alchemy;
During the next year we plan several new products that will incorporate hydrosols in the formula. We plan to add a pump-able body lotion, a facial serum and a creamy clay mask.
Clary Sage Salvia sclarea earl grey tea, anti-depressant, anti-inflammatory
You can purchase the Rose Hydrosol and the Orange Blossom Hydrosol via the website
How to Use?
Use as a freshener any time of the day (works over makeup without messing it up)
Use after lots of screen-time
After exposure to the wind or sun
Mix for masks
Blend into lotions or creams (recipe)
Add to sparkling water over ice and garnish for a refreshing drink
Mist after cleansing as a tonic
Apply before lotions/creams to improve absorption
Further reading: Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy, Aromatherapy for the Beauty Professional, 375 Essential Oils and Hydrosols, Harvest to Hydrosol