Adding Layers to the Simple Blends

If you had fun exploring the simple blends, this post is for you!

You’ve probably noticed that the language for multiple-ingredient fragrances is often defined by the lyrical language of music: notes and accords. Now that you have your basic formula you can add complexity to a simple blend is with an ‘accord’, these accords are defined by aromatic families like fougere, floral, amber, chypre, gourmand.

We offer three base accords to add complexity and longevity to your simple blend. Before you begin, ask yourself a few key questions:

Is this fragrance for you or someone else?
Will this be a fragrance in oil or in alcohol?
What is the star of the basics blend you selected?
Is it floral? or Citrus?
What flavors does your fragrance conjure: sweet, spicy, sour, creamy, juicy?
What textures do you want to evoke: wet, rustic, earthy?
Is there a sound or style of music you imagine when thinking of your fragrance?
Think about what the ad would look like if you were marketing to the wearer of the scent.

Your answers will help determine which of the three base accords you pick. And will help you focus and evaluate your fragrance as you move forward. You’ll decide which essences to tweak.

Base Accords: Measured in drops into 15 ml of oil or alcohol to start

Woods Formula: (17 Facets of Perfumery)

Frankincense 10 Cedar Virginia 10 Sandalwood 10 Rosewood (nature identical) 3 Patchouli 2

Basic Chypre Formula: (17 Facets of Perfumery)

Oakmoss 10 Bergamot 10 Patchouli 5 Tangerine 5 Lime 3 Fir Balsam Absolute 2

Basic Amber Formula (Mandy Aftel, Essence & Alchemy)

Labdanum 15 Benzoin 60 Vanilla CO2 2

If you didn’t do the “Simple Blends” exercise, you can take one of these base formulas and add top and middle notes to meet your brief.

Top: Cinnamon, Clove, Cardamom, Pink Grapefruit, Bergamot, Black Pepper and Blood Orange

Middle: Rose, Lavender, Ylang Ylang, Chamomile, Geranium (rose or bourbon), and Galbanum

Cocoa, Coffee, Saffron and Tobacco (nicotiana) would be interesting accessory notes to get your hands on as well if you’re really loving the project.

As you’re experimenting, take diligent notes about drop quantities and how the aroma changes with the additions. It’s not important to know how perfumers describe the scent. Your own stories and observations on texture, color, mood and memory (this reminds me of celery is just as important as this brings to mind this time that…).

Resources:

Perfumer’s Apprentice is an excellent source for small amounts of natural aromas (and synthetics)

Eden Botanical for sample sizes and natural ingredients

Aftelier exquisite materials and a Natural Perfumer’s Wheel (like the ones for coffee and wine)

Dilutions Calculator

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